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While the middle section dried, I repeated the same steps for the front and back sections except for the top's two outermost boards. Then I tried to clean up as much glue squeeze-out as possible before moving on to the next two sections. Once the glue was applied I attached the cauls and then the rest of the clamps. I tried to move quickly and spread the glue using a hard rubber roller which worked really well. This project and the vises should take around 2/3 of a gallon, so I definitely recommend buying a gallon bottle to save some money. Then it was time to add some glue! For this project I used Titebond III glue which costs a bit more but has a longer open time which reduces some of the glue-up stress. These will be used to remove any crook in the boards during glue-up by clamping them across the top and bottom edges of the boards. Since these boards like to warp after they're surfaced, I also made a few clamping cauls from some scraps.
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Hitachi 12" Compound Sliding Miter Saw (C12RSH) ( Latest version: C12RSH2).The main goal is to end up with boards that have a consistent thickness and that the thickness of the outer two boards of the top match the thickness of the corresponding boards in the leg and long stretcher so that the laminated joints match. The sliding miter saw could also be replaced with a circular saw or hand saw. You could purchase pre-surfaced boards to skip this step at additional cost, skip-plane the boards using only a planer, or even hand-plane the boards if you like a good workout.Ī table-saw is very handy for ripping the boards to final width, though a circular saw with an edge guide could also be used.
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To speed up the process of surfacing the construction grade lumber, I used a jointer and planer. For the legs, I switched to 2x10s and ended up with legs that were a little over 4" wide. A few small knots on the top are fine and can easily be filled with epoxy or Super Glue, but it's best to avoid anything large that looks like it might break off.įor the top and stretchers, I decided to use 2x8 boards which saves a little money and still results in a plenty-thick top at 3-1/4" thick and stretchers that were 3-3/4" thick. I tried to find the straightest boards without knots on either the outside edges or down the middle since they'll all be ripped in half. I spent quite a while sorting through lumber at two different stores to find the boards needed for this project. Unfortunately, the downside to using this type of lumber is the quality. The southern yellow pine boards for this bench cost right around $100 here in North Carolina. The upside to using construction-grade lumber is the price. The final version of the Fusion 360 plans for this video can be found here: Fusion 360 Plansįor this bench I used 2x8 and 2x10 construction-grade lumber and a piece of 3/4" MDF for the shelf. This makes it easy to get nice, tight-fitting joints during the final assembly. These joints are instead created during the lamination or glue-up process.
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One of the main design goals for this bench was to avoid the need to chisel out the mortises in the top and to avoid having to chisel or use a dado blade to create the tenons in the leg or for the lap joints between the legs and the long stretchers. This makes it very easy to adjust a few numbers and create the exact bench that fits your space and needs!
#ELECTRONIC WORKBENCH SKETCHUP DOWNLOAD UPDATE#
This makes it possible to create and specify custom values (such as the workbench height, length of the top, top thickness, etc.) and have both the 3D model as well as any 2D layout drawings update automatically when the parameters are later changed. In this tutorial, I cover the design of this workbench in Fusion by creating a fully parametric model of the bench. For this bench, I wanted to simplify a few aspects of the traditional Roubo-style workbench and it seemed like a great opportunity to make an introduction to Fusion 360 tutorial.